Scarpa Mago

Excellent!

For me, the Scarpa Mago is the best indoor bouldering climbing shoe! I haven't yet used them outdoors, but I don't see why they wouldn't excel there as well. They're comfortable, precise, sensitive and good all around (vertical and horizontal, slabs and volumes, heel and toe hooks). I'm size 8 in street shoes and size 7 in Scarpa Mago. They're good for climbing almost straight out of the box. What I do though is wear them around the house at first, for about an hour all together, and then I can do a 2-3 hours session at the gym where I take them off maybe every 30 mins. They brake in properly after 3 sessions I'd say. The Scarpa Mago are the most comfortable shoes I have ever tried...and I've tried a lot in store, or at home where I would wear them for an hour and return them afterwards because my feet hurt. But with the Magos I've never experienced any discomfort, even if they're one size down! I have two pairs of Scarpa Mago, same size, which I like to alternate for hygiene/smell purposes. Now they're both being resoled (one with Vibram XS Edge and one with XS Grip), so I bought another pair to wear until the other two are done. I also have the Scarpa Vapour S and Scarpa Instinct Lace, but none of these are as comfortable as the Scarpa Mago...I tried using them while waiting for the resole, but ended up buying a new pair of Mago simply because none of the others can match it. The only downsides of the Scarpa Mago are that the rubber on the toes wear quite fast, but they can be resoled with Vibram XS Edge which is more durable, and the other is the heel which can feel unsecure in some heel hook situations. But they're very rare I'd say. Otherwise, these shoes are amazing! (I climb V6 indoors)