COMPASS ST-1500 Sliding Table

Superior in every way to it's competitors

Everything about the ST-1500 sliding table is superior to it's competitors. I have either owned or looked closely at the ST-1500 competitors ("G" for cheaper and "SS" for comparable price) and now having installed and used the ST-1500 I can state without reservation that the Harvey is superior in every way. It's fit and finish is impeccable. Everything works smoothly without play and just feels more durable. So far it has been a delight to use. I had some contact with the company before I bought this slider and they were very helpful and responsive.

Good product

Positive Set up was quick and not difficult Slides smoothly Negative Fence does not hold zero when removed and replaced Stops flex when pushed even slightly

Set-up a bear but worth it. Calibrate regularly with a big square.

I installed this seven months ago on my new Harvey saw. The saw was already dialed in with blade, miter slots and the BigEye fence all parallel. The saw tabletop was checked for flatness. In order to align the sliding table so it would slide parallel to the blade I needed shims (0.004” to 0.0015” ; 0.15-.04 mm). That is, the left side of the saw table or the sliding table was manufactured with some skew that needed correction. In order to keep the fence parallel to the table surface I needed another set of shims (0.002”, 0.05 mm). This two-plane adjustment required a LOT of trial and error work. Fortunately Amazon had a set of precision stainless steel shims at a very reasonable price. Tape is not hard and stable enough and of course does not come in precise thicknesses. I usually remove the fence when not in use since it often gets in the way in my limited space. So I need to install and calibrate to 90 degrees whenever I use it. The 0 degree stop mechanism on the gauge does not allow sufficient accuracy or precision, especially not for long panel cuts. I calibrate the fence to right angles with my Big Eye fence (which is reliably calibrated parallel to the blade). I have a steel Kinex DIN 875/1 19 3/4” (500 mm) square ($55 from Taylor Tools) that I use for this. Long side pressed against the fence and when the fence is aligned I can hear and feel a solid thunk when the heavy 13” (330 mm) short side slides against the Big-Eye. (If not aligned perfectly, just one corner of the short side hits the fence and does not thunk). Then tighten the fence handle and the lock screws (CCW). This only takes about a minute now and it’s worth checking before any cut since the fence can go out of square if accidentally bumped hard enough. I know this is not a cast iron or industrial sliding table, so I don’t mind the setup and regular calibration so long as it cuts well, and it does since there is no slop in the sliding mechanism. I can cut panels with confidence and don’t need a sled. The flip stops had too much flex in them out of the box. The actual measurement would change even with the wood pressed lightly against the stop. It was easy to figure out how to tighten the hinge to make the stop more usable, but the hinge point is still too narrow for a precision stop. I understand why the flip stop was not manufactured wider at the hinge, but I think Harvey should reconsider that economic decision. The scale is hard for my old eyes to read accurately. I would prefer a window and hairline setup with a scale that is easier to read - like the one on the BigEye. On the plus side, the fine adjustment on the stops is great when trying to creep up on a cut. In fact, the best way I know of to do that. After a few months of use the sliding mechanism began to screech. I keep my machines clean, so it obviously needed lubrication somewhere, but I didn’t want to spray something all over. I eventually found the right spots to apply paste wax. (Ask Harvey where. They should put this info in the manual).